Castanea sativa Bur: An undervalued by-product but a promising cosmetic ingredient

• Type: Article in International Scientific Journal
• Date: 2017

Authors

D. Pinto (Author) Other; N. Braga (Author) Other; F. Rodrigues (Author) Other; Beatriz B P P Oliveira (Author) FFUP

Journal

Title: Cosmetics

Vol. 4 No. 50

Pages: 1-50

Publisher: MDPI

Indexing

Scopus - 9 Citations

Other information

Authenticus ID: P-00Q-VP1

DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics4040050

Abstract (EN): Castanea sativa fruit processing generates high amounts of by-products, mostly bur. Currently, the cosmetic industry has a great interest in natural extracts as antioxidant sources. In the present study, C. sativa bur extract was used as the active ingredient, in different amounts, in topical hydrogels. The formulations were characterized regarding total phenolic and flavonoid contents (TPC and TFC, respectively), antioxidant activity (DPPH radical scavenging capacity and ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP)) and technological and microbiological properties. The same parameters were evaluated after 30 days of storage at 4 °C (T 30/4 °C) and 20 °C (T 30/20 °C). At time 0 (T 0 ), the TPC ranged between 0.79 and 9.65 mg of gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g gel, while TFC varied from 0.05 to 1.23 mg of catechin equivalents (CAE)/g gel. Antioxidant activity was high for both assays, with values at T0 ranging between 98.41 and 1013.43 ¿mol of ferrous sulphate equivalents (FSE)/g gel and varying between 431.96 and 990.84 ¿g of Trolox equivalents (TE)/g gel for FRAP and DPPH assays, respectively. No formulation exceeded the defined criteria in microbiological counts. All formulations showed similar technological profiles but particular attention should be given to pH. The gel with 50% of extract (F3) was selected as the best one for potential cosmetic applications. © 2017 by the author.

Language: English

Type (Professor's evaluation): Scientific