Comparison between sensory and instrumental characterization of topical formulations: impact of thickening agents

• Type: Article in International Scientific Journal
• Date: 2016

Authors

Estanqueiro, M (Author) Other; Maria Helena Amaral (Author) FFUP; Sousa Lobo JM (Author) FFUP

Journal

Title: International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Vol. 38

Pages: 389-398

ISSN: 0142-5463

Publisher: Wiley-Blackwell

Indexing

ISI Web of Knowledge - 33 Citations

Scopus - 39 Citations

Other information

Authenticus ID: P-00K-N4D

DOI: 10.1111/ics.12302

Abstract (EN): ObjectiveSensorial properties of cutaneous formulations are important in determining their acceptability by consumers. However, sensorial analysis is time-consuming and requires an available panel of trained assessors. Thus, this article aimed to study the impact of thickening agents on mechanical properties of creams and investigate how these measurements could correlate the sensory attributes using a combined instrumental-sensorial approach. MethodsFor this purpose, eight semisolid formulations were prepared, containing in their composition different thickening agents at different concentrations. These formulations were firstly microscopically observed and then assayed through textural, rheological and spreadability measurements. Textural characterization and rheological characterization were performed during six months to assess the physical stability of the studied formulations. Finally, six sensory attributes, namely firmness, adhesiveness, cohesiveness, spreadability, consistency and adhesiveness post-application, were tested by a trained panel. ResultsIt was observed that thickening agents influence the microstructure of semisolid emulsions and also their mechanical properties. In general, an increase in the concentration of thickening agents improves the physical stability of formulations over time. Besides, textural parameters (firmness and adhesiveness), viscosity and difficulty to spread also increase. A good correlation between mechanical characterization and sensorial analysis was verified, mainly for spreadability properties. ConclusionWith the obtained results, it is possible to conclude that the proposed methods for mechanical characterization can be correlated with sensorial perception obtained from volunteers, representing a faster and less expensive alternative than sensory analysis. Resume ObjectifLes proprietes sensorielles des formulations cutanees sont importantes pour determiner leur acceptabilite par les consommateurs. Cependant, l'analyse sensorielle prend beaucoup de temps et necessite un panel d'evaluateurs qualifies disponibles. Ainsi, ce travail vise a etudier l'impact des agents epaississants sur les proprietes mecaniques de cremes et d'enqueter sur la facon dont ces mesures pourraient correler avec les attributs sensoriels utilisant une approche combinee instrumentale-sensorielle. MethodesA cet effet, huit formulations semi-solides ont ete preparees, contenant dans leur composition des agents epaississants differents a differentes concentrations. Ces formulations ont d'abord ete observes au microscope puis evaluees par des mesures de texture, de rheologie et de l'etalement. Les caracterisations texturales et rheologiques ont ete effectuees au cours de six mois afin d'evaluer la stabilite physique des formulations etudiees. Enfin, six attributs sensoriels, a savoir, la fermete, l'adherence, la cohesion, l'etalement, la coherence et l'adherence apres l'application, ont ete testes par un panel forme. ResultatsOn a observe que des agents epaississants influencent la microstructure des emulsions semi-solides ainsi que leurs proprietes mecaniques. En general, une augmentation de la concentration d'agents epaississants ameliore la stabilite physique dans le temp des formulations. En outre, les parametres de texture (fermete et adherence), de viscosite et de difficulte d'etalement augmentent egalement. Une bonne correlation entre la caracterisation mecanique et l'analyse sensorielle a ete verifiee, principalement pour les proprietes d'etalement. ConclusionAvec les resultats obtenus, il est possible de conclure que les methodes proposees pour la caracterisation mecanique peuvent etre correlees avec la perception sensorielle obtenue par des benevoles, ce qui represente une alternative plus rapide et moins couteuse que l'analyse sensorielle.

Language: English

Type (Professor's evaluation): Scientific

No. of pages: 10