Genipa americana L.: A New Phytochemical for White Hair Coloring

• Type: Article in International Scientific Journal
• Date: 2023

Authors

Machado, AV (Author) Other; Menezes, LRO (Author) Other; Santana, AAM (Author) Other; Marques, MN (Author) Other; de Lima, AK (Author) Other; Cano, A (Author) Other; Severino, P (Author) Other; Souto, EB (Author) FFUP; Cardoso, JC (Author) Other

Journal

Title: Chemistry and Biodiversity

Vol. 20

ISSN: 1612-1872

Publisher: Wiley-Blackwell

Indexing

ISI Web of Knowledge - 0 Citations

Scopus - 1 Citation

Other information

Authenticus ID: P-00Z-1B3

DOI: 10.1002/cbdv.202300083

Abstract (EN): This work describes a new hair dyeing methodology using a chemical reaction between geniposide, an iridoid glycoside extracted from the fruit of Genipa americana (geniposide extract, GE) and the amine group of hair keratin. The influence of reaction conditions (pH, temperature, and extract concentration) on the staining of hair fibers, color development, fiber morphology, and mechanical hair properties of black and white human hair samples, was evaluated before and after GE dyeing treatment. Eye contact safety of GE was also studied using HETCAM. The treatment of white hair fibers using GE at 20 mg mL(-1), temperature of 80 degrees C and pH 5.5 presented the greatest color change (Delta E=54.0). The higher pH influence was observed at pH 10.0 on white hair tresses (Delta E=6.8), using an GE concentration of 20 mg mL(-1) and room temperature (25 degrees C). Treated samples showed marked changes on mechanical and morphological properties. The HET-CAM did not show any change, thus demonstrating that using GE is safe. In conclusion, the temperature and concentration of the extract were the variables that mostly influenced the color and hair damage. A new approach for hair dyeing was established where iridoids may potentially be useful as a natural hair dyeing.

Language: English

Type (Professor's evaluation): Scientific

No. of pages: 11