Resumo (PT):
The critical analysis of the performance of a medium to long-term
shoreline evolution model, which incorporates bottom change updating based on
predefined rules, showed the need to improve processes description, namely beach
profile development under the action of different wave conditions. The absence of
coherent field data sets, particularly expensive for high energetic coastal zones as
is the case for the Portuguese west coast, together with the possibility to access an
experimental facility led to the completion of a three-dimensional movable bed
model of a beach in a continued erosion situation. Furthermore, the effect of a
transversal defense structure was also considered. The morphological time scale
determination allowed the articulation between physical model results for profile
development and simulations from the referred numerical model. The
interpretation of these results, to what laboratory and scale effects were identified,
may give some guidance for the numerical description of the profile development.
Abstract (EN):
The critical analysis of the performance of a medium to long-term
shoreline evolution model, which incorporates bottom change updating based on
predefined rules, showed the need to improve processes description, namely beach
profile development under the action of different wave conditions. The absence of
coherent field data sets, particularly expensive for high energetic coastal zones as
is the case for the Portuguese west coast, together with the possibility to access an
experimental facility led to the completion of a three-dimensional movable bed
model of a beach in a continued erosion situation. Furthermore, the effect of a
transversal defense structure was also considered. The morphological time scale
determination allowed the articulation between physical model results for profile
development and simulations from the referred numerical model. The
interpretation of these results, to what laboratory and scale effects were identified,
may give some guidance for the numerical description of the profile development.
Language:
English
Type (Professor's evaluation):
Scientific
Contact:
rfsilva@fe.up.pt